| mental, social and ethical pressures on the global | | | | good deal of negotiations and stakeholder meetings |
| textiles and fashion sector emerged in Europe in the | | | | led to a generally accepted code of practice for labor |
| early 1980s. The main driver was consumer concern | | | | management in developing countries acceptable to |
| over the safety of the materials. However in parallel | | | | most parties involved. The SA 8000 emerged as the |
| with this trend, a minority group of ethical consumers | | | | leading industry driven voluntary standard on worker |
| demanded chemical-free and low | | | | welfare issues. SA 8000 supporters now include the |
| environmental impact clothing and fashion goods. This | | | | GAP, TNT and others and SAI reports that as of |
| resulted in the European and later the US organic | | | | 2008, almost 1 million workers in 1700 facilities have |
| labeling system being extended to include criteria for | | | | achieved SA 8000 certification. Such a certification |
| clothing and textiles, such as organic cotton. As of | | | | requires investment in the process but also more |
| 2007, the sector was the fastest growing part of | | | | significantly in changing labor practices such as wage |
| the global cotton industry with growth of more than | | | | structures. It is clearly being driven by large US and |
| 50% a year. With reference to safety standards, | | | | European multinationals that may require certain |
| primarily addressing consumer concern over chemicals | | | | suppliers to gain certification. |
| in textiles, the Oeko-Tex standard has become highly | | | | The Fair Trade movement has also had a significant |
| popular in the industry. Although unknown to | | | | impact on the fashion business. The standard |
| consumers, It tests for chemicals such as flame | | | | combines a number of ethical issues of potential |
| retardants in clothes and categorizes goods according | | | | concern to consumers — environmental |
| to their likely exposure to humans (e.g. baby clothes | | | | factors, fair treatment of developing country |
| must adhere to the strictest standards for chemicals). | | | | suppliers and worker welfare. The Fair Trade label has |
| Thus the issue of chemicals in clothing has become | | | | show explosive growth. |
| largely one of liability risk control for the industry with | | | | Albeit on a very small scale and not always at the |
| the consumers obviously expecting products to pose | | | | top end of the fashion industry, many niche brands |
| no risk to their health. Organic and eco fashion and | | | | have emerged which promote themselves primarily |
| textiles attracts a far smaller, but fast growing group | | | | on sustainability grounds People Tree in the UK states |
| of consumers, largely in Western Europe and Coastal | | | | that it creates Fair Trade and organic clothing and |
| US. | | | | accessories by forming lasting partnerships with Fair |
| Of far greater concern to the global fashion sector is | | | | Trade, organic producers in developing countries. |
| the issue of worker welfare. The issue was | | | | Leading fashion journal Marie Claire ranked its top |
| highlighted by pressure groups such as Global | | | | 10 eco brands in a recent issue. The key issues |
| Exchange in the US targeting Levis and Nike and | | | | remain chemicals in clothing (certified by organic and |
| others. | | | | Fair Trade labels), worker treatment (certified by SA |
| In the late 1980s and early 1990s anecdotal evidence | | | | 8000 and Fair Trade) and increasingly mainstream |
| began emerging from labor activists in the US and | | | | environmental issues such as climate change. The |
| Europe concerning the supply chains and overseas | | | | Carbon Reduction Label verifies a product’s |
| factories of leading US and European multinationals. A | | | | cradle-to-grave carbon footprint, although is not |
| key target was the world's leading maker of denim | | | | specific to clothing. Mainstream brands such as Louis |
| jeans Levi Strauss, but more significantly Nike, the | | | | Vuitton, Gucci, H&M and Zara have been slower to |
| world's largest sports shoe marketing firm. Global | | | | make firm commitments on the full rage of ethical |
| Exchange launched its Nike Anti Sweatshop campaign, | | | | issues due to the difficulties of switching their supply |
| focusing on the firms sourcing in China and Indonesia. | | | | chains and products lines completely in favor of |
| Issues included child labor, minimum wages, working | | | | organic or Fair Trade certified or other standards and |
| hours and employee benefits. Activists argued that | | | | norms. They are however, moving slowing to ensure |
| such issues should not differ too widely from | | | | they capture the market if it becomes significant |
| standards mandatory in the West, while Nike argued | | | | — the world’s largest fashion brand |
| at the time that differing national economic and social | | | | Louis Vuitton recently acquired a small eco fashion |
| conditions dictated different standards globally. A | | | | label. |